cheryl
Administrator
Staff member
‘We want carbs!’: how comfort food conquered the world’s best restaurants - The Guardian
From crumpets to pies to ham and cheese toasties, restaurants are replacing ‘challenging’ dishes with those that remind us of home and childhood. Why is this change happening now?
It was the crumpet that did it. Sure, the mackerel paté was mesmerising, the pickled oyster piquant and the brill terrine as dazzling as its name suggests. But, as we half-rolled out of Cornerstone seafood restaurant in east London, the crumpet was what sank into our memory – dripping with butter and laden with small, sweetly savoury potted shrimps.
It was our childhood – or, at least, the crumpet was: its buttery lattice and doughy insides up there with Live and Kicking as a highlight of Saturday mornings. It was comfort food: fat, carbohydrate and nostalgia together with a palpable sense of home.
From crumpets to pies to ham and cheese toasties, restaurants are replacing ‘challenging’ dishes with those that remind us of home and childhood. Why is this change happening now?
It was the crumpet that did it. Sure, the mackerel paté was mesmerising, the pickled oyster piquant and the brill terrine as dazzling as its name suggests. But, as we half-rolled out of Cornerstone seafood restaurant in east London, the crumpet was what sank into our memory – dripping with butter and laden with small, sweetly savoury potted shrimps.
It was our childhood – or, at least, the crumpet was: its buttery lattice and doughy insides up there with Live and Kicking as a highlight of Saturday mornings. It was comfort food: fat, carbohydrate and nostalgia together with a palpable sense of home.